Étiquette : 1693

Between life and death, visiting Varanasi* is like the city of joy!

How to describe this city to you? Telling you that it’s a shock to see the dead pass you by? How do you explain that the locals smile on the street corner after a funeral procession? Visiting Varanasi is like being in the apocalypse of conflicting emotions. It made me think of Delhi again but less oppressive and more joyful. After a few hours, I thought of the City of Joy, with Patrick Swayze. Ok the story of the film takes place in Calcutta, but I had this feeling in these first moments. When you walk along the Ganges or “Ganga in English”, silence is your traveling companion. Peace, tranquility and various thoughts guide you along the Ganges until you come across strange events.

An unshakeable faith, and a path of peace

My first day was actually late afternoon after a 14-hour train ride from Khajuraho. It’s long, very long but the reward is worth the journey. I unpacked my bag and stayed in this small Indian family guest house for €5 a night with minimum comfort. I plan to film and take photos and I’m asking the English about the local agenda. I can already tell you that if you want to see the ceremonies, you will have to avoid sleeping in. It is at the Assi ghât that the first processions take place around 5:30 a.m. Attending ancestral rituals is a magical moment because the choreography is spiritual, graceful and relaxing. Hindu monks who look like Buddhist monks present their show which has remained the same for years.

I took the photos which you can see below. I write these lines as if it were a vision that I could describe to you up to the second in real time. I think I can’t do better than to tell you: visit Varanasi. Seeing these ceremonies, this unwavering faith in the Indian gods, and that death is only a stage of life is something astonishing.

Why visit Varanasi?

If you visit Varanasi, it’s not to take a bath. Along the Ganges, you can try this experience but I do not recommend it. I saw Europeans doing it but I didn’t follow because I was already sick. If you want to limit the risk of skin infection, now is the time to go ahead and just take a look. If you come to this city, it is for the deep religious aspect and to seek the answer to this question: why do they do this? For centuries, Indians have honored their beliefs by the Ganges, a river which is said to be sacred to Europeans. But in fact the Ganges is just a means of washing away their sins. The Ganges is in no way sacred if you ask Indians like I did.

The Ghats to see to understand a little better

To honor their gods, Indians wash with water to purify their bodies by tradition. Although this water is dirty for us, it is in fact clean spiritually speaking. The different ghats on the banks of the Ganges that you will find are spread out over good strides. Precisely between the Assi ghat in the south and the “main” Dashashwamedh ghat it is a 2.5 kilometer walk. During the day, I often went back and forth between the two ghats and it was easy to enjoy the sun and the worship that took place at each ghat.

The one that struck me the most was undoubtedly that of open-air cremations. It is located between the two ghats that I mentioned above. The dead parade under white sheets and covered under orange and red carnations at the Manikarnika ghât. The bodies are then placed in the middle of the piles of wood to be burned in the open air. The ashes are then given to the family who decides to keep them, or to spread them in the Ganges. A disturbing and unusual moment for us. Don’t take photos because they are watching you.

In the evening to go to Dashashwamedh Ghat, you can take a boat from the north or the south. As for me, I took a boat on the way out from the Assi ghat and I walked on the way back. Count 300 rupees one way for a rowing boat. The goal is to join the main ceremony which begins at 6:00 p.m. and enjoy the joy and music that is available to you. Plan to be early as traffic jams are guaranteed in front of the Dashashwamedh Ghat. You can then dock to be closer to the actors.

What is a Ghat?

In India, a ghat designates the steps which cover the banks of basins or tanks and allow one to descend into contact with the water. In summer, the ghats are flooded by the rainy season, and I do not recommend this period to visit Varanasi. You have to wait 2 months after August to travel along the Ganges. After the rainy season, the Indians clean the banks of mud. They go there to wash clothes, purify themselves, do group ceremonies, the ghat is an important social place for all practitioners of the Hindu religion.

* Varanasi = formerly Benares.

In the store, find my EBOOK on India, and otherwise, you can buy one of these books:

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Visiting Khajuraho is because you are going on a honeymoon as a couple or as a tourist. I couldn’t find a more « offbeat » title for this article because that’s what the city sells you, sex. Indeed, if you walk around Khajuraho, the entire town presents images of lovers and sex. In the statue reproduction shops, on the fabrics, in the stalls, in the hands of the street sellers, in short you will be in the city which is certainly at the origin of the ancestor of the film X.

In the beginning the Indians were not very modest

To think that these Indians had the tendency to lift their legs easily is unimaginable when we see what Indian society is like today. Years of Muslim and British occupation put an end to these codes. But before colonization, the Indians were imaginative. My guide says that life used to be somewhat wild in this area. Men had the right to control all the women they wanted. During games ceremonies, they celebrated with music, songs and rather acrobatic legs in the air. The guide explains that positions were invented this way and written on stones.

The temples of love or kamasutra

Visiting Khajuraho means seeing these magnificent temples which have been abandoned for years. Rediscovered by chance by a British soldier at the beginning of the 19th century, they were surrounded by the wildest nature that existed. Trees, lianas, tall grass, roots, in short a jungle. When we visit Khajuraho and its temples we cannot imagine this invasive jungle surrounding the temples. The places are very well maintained now and many are free. Only the site which brings together 11 temples is paying and offers you an additional guide if you want to know more about the history of the temples and the people who gave them life. All the temples look the same and are in the same architectural style. You need a day to see them all, including the free ones.

Nature to enjoy the ambient calm, visit Khajuraho and its surroundings

Once you have seen the temples, you can always continue visiting Kahjuraho. Why not rent a bike or scooter?  Head out on the road to see the waterfalls, or the tiger park. It’s quiet here, nothing like the big cities I’ve visited before. The residents are sober, no multiple attempts to sell a service or product that you don’t need. Ho miracle too, because the tuk-tuks leave you alone. So you have your freedom to go near the river to swim with the children.

You can also go and see the manufacture of objects in the shops such as pottery or statues. Visit Khajuraho also in the evening because  you also have a local show. A typical, slightly “kitschy” show with dancing and singing in an amphitheater. This show brings together costumes from all regions of India and we see the diversity of the country at a glance.

Humanitarian mission

Why visit Agra in India? When I asked people in France, no one answered what I expected. When I gave a clue: “one of the 7 wonders of the world”, people said: The Taj Mahal. Well done, because the pearl of India is located about 4 hours by train from Delhi. It is not wrong to say that this city was the capital of a bygone era under the Mughal Empire. Hence the presence of multiple places to see and additional reasons to visit Agra. The city is known by travelers and lovers of the country for this. But there are other beautiful things to see in Agra. I think of my first monument when arriving from the station: Agra Fort.

Agra Fort

This fort is imposing, impossible to miss when arriving by train from Delhi or Jaipur to visit Agra. In texts we hear about it in 1080 AD but it was enlarged between 1565 and 1573 by the Mughal emperor Akbar. Covering an area of ​​38 hectares, it is the largest fort in India alongside that of Gwalior. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. The surrounding walls, made of red sandstone, are 21 meters high and 2.5 km long.

During my visit, I was touched by this story told by a French-speaking guide. He explains that a short part of its history is linked to the Taj Mahal. A story that I find sad is that of a ruler’s son who locks his father in the fort’s prison after he completes the construction of the Taj Mahal. A takeover of power which was cruel at the time but common according to my guide. In short, by reading the rest, you will understand that this emperor lived a life of suffering for the power of a son and the loss of a wife. The Muslim emperor died within its walls on January 31, 1666, and was buried next to his wife at the Taj Mahal.

The Taj Mahal

It is a love story that gave birth to this wonder on the banks of the Yamuna River. Following the death of his wife, the Muslim Mughal emperor Shâh Jahân erected a mausoleum in this place in her memory. It was known as Mumtaz Mahal, which in Persian means “the light of the palace”. She died on June 17, 1631, giving birth to the emperor’s fourteenth child.

It was therefore in 1631 that the construction of the Taj began, but most of it was completed in 1648. I recovered some valuable documents to provide information on its construction. These documents explain: “How did such a masterpiece come into existence here in the middle of nothing? » Its architecture is unique, a style that combines Islamic, Iranian, Ottoman and Indian architectural elements. It is built using materials from various parts of India and the rest of Asia. More than 1000 elephants are used to transport building materials during construction.

The most beautiful things for a woman’s love

White marble is extracted from Rajasthan, jasper comes from Panjâb, turquoise and malachite from Tibet, lapis lazuli from Sri Lanka, coral from the Red Sea, carnelian from Persia and Yemen, onyx from the Deccan and Persia, garnets from the Ganges and Boundelkand, agate from Yemen and Jaisalmer, crystal from rock of the Himalayas. In all, twenty-eight types of fine or ornamental polychrome stones were used to compose the marquetry patterns inlaid in the white marble.

Do you realize this madness? Of this genius? Splendid, grandiose, incredibly moving, in short, there is no shortage of adjectives to describe this work. If there is one thing you must do before you die like this emperor, it is to see his work, the Taj Mahal.

In the store, find my EBOOK on India, and otherwise, you can buy one of these books:

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Visiting Jaipur is magical!

Visiting Jaipur is a no-brainer! After Delhi (see the article on visiting Delhi) and its multiple concoctions of noises, urine smells, but also wonderful moments of spirituality stuck between the city’s districts, I took a train for the capital of Rajasthan. This region is that of the Mughal kings of old, because a large number of forts and temples are found in Rajasthan.

Four hours by train to arrive in the heart of the city of the maharajas is nothing to thrill to an era worthy of a Disney story. Experiencing an adventure in Jaipur is like becoming Aladdin in the land of a thousand and one nights. You are in search of pure beauty within the walls of Amber Fort. That said, Jasmine is not far away gentlemen, since women in traditional dress from the Rajasthan region will pass before your eyes.

Jaipur, the arid city at the edge of the desert

To visit Jaipur is to be in an arid region. But between September and December, this drought is not noticed because it is tropical winter. A temperature between 25 and 30 degrees awaits you during this period. The streets of Jaipur are colored pink, sometimes a little yellow and blue. It is especially the Pink City which lives up to its name that you will notice. You will understand that if it bears this name, it is because of its color which is close to pink but it is not totally pink as in your imagination.

These walls are made of a ferruginous coating, which gives this “a little pink” side to the whole old city center of Jaipur. We could say that the color is close to the “Provençal farmhouses” in the south of France for comparison. To properly visit Jaipur, you have the City Palace to see without hesitation in the heart of the city. It contains the entire history of the city. A museum devotes several rooms in the city to weapons and clothing worn by maharajas in the past.

Fort Amber and its new tenants

To the northeast of the city, perched on a hill, the imposing fortress keeps an eye on the horizon. Built in the 12th century by a Rajput clan from Kachhwaha, it was Jai Singh II who gave the name to the current city during his reign between 1699 and 1743. Today, animals have replaced the warriors and watch over the walls with one eye. We come across Rajasthani goats with their drooping ears like an elephant or even monkeys. Monkeys love your packets of chips so watch out for those “snatchers’ very good at surprising you.

What an imposing building when you arrive on Amer road. Elephants pass in front of you, tuk-tuks “surf” between cows and pigs, and buses want to overtake you. But this fort absorbs your entire gaze. It transports you into a dream that will belong to you just as I had mine at that precise moment. Fort Amber is an intact citadel as if time had changed nothing since the departure of its ancestors. It will take you 1h30 to visit it, taking your time to take photos.

Nahargarh Fort: 360 degrees of Jaipur

Built in 1734 and enlarged in 1868, this fortress offers one and only interest in my opinion, when we have already seen Fort Amber. Its strong point is the view over the entire city of Jaipur. In terms of architecture, I preferred Fort Amber, and I found it a shame that restaurants were located inside. There is also what I call « fake », a mini Mahal which offers a room of mirrors and tries to make you mistake bladders for lanterns. A video at the entrance wants you to believe in the authentic side of this place. It is an attraction set up from scratch for tourists.

In the store, find my EBOOK on India, and otherwise, you can buy one of these books:

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Visit Delhi: 4 Days in Hell and Heaven

I was told: “India is the country of contrasts”, it is certain that the capital reflects these oppositions well. To visit Delhi is to be destabilized, by your emotions between uneasiness and well-being. New Delhi, a city that will drive you crazy or in love.

There is no city in the world that can both disgust and amaze you except Delhi. Of course, you will look for the positive during your stay in India. However, if you come across things that are not from your world, that is to say from your tidy little life, do not run away. We must accept this disgust, to understand that this negative vibration is beneficial for appreciating India at its true value. In the bad he has good and in the good he has bad. Be pragmatic and move forward in your discovery of the city. Don’t trust your senses when it comes to smells, or noise, or your hosts spitting on the ground or even seeing dead animals on the side of the road.

Visit Delhi gently and courageously

Delhi is an anthill that gets kicked every day. I spent 4 days in hell and heaven to learn again to live in a different way. So if you turn a blind eye at the first unrest in another city in the world, don’t come, you will feel too bad. On the other hand, if you manage to surpass yourself and overcome your fears, you will have made progress in your personal development and you will have the added bonus of having access to magical places. With New Delhi, what madness to want to leave alone like me, but what a pleasure to succeed in this adventure!

Visiting Delhi is both: paradise and hell on earth. For what ? I don’t know. That’s how it is, even Indians don’t ask themselves the question because this life is normal.

Where to get your bearings to start?

My advice for visiting Delhi is to start with the worst. Take accommodation (hotel, guest house or Indian family) on the “main bazaar” street opposite Delhi railway station and prepare for the shock. An electrocution will run through your body to become one with the atmosphere of the city around you. Between alleys that will remind you of the worst horror films, the disgusting hygiene of the Indians, and the smells of dead dogs, you will vomit. Nice, right? but this feeling is mine. What will yours be?

Visit Delhi in family accommodation

Did the paragraph before scare you? It’s voluntary, but don’t leave, the best is always to come because life is well done. We don’t only experience misfortunes and horrible things. Death is totally integrated into the daily life of Indians. Here we live to love, to share and to help. As for me, I helped, I was helped, and I shared incredible moments with his people. I loved those who surrounded me and gave me priceless memories. They have none of the attitude of the capitalist European but they have everything we don’t have.

Be respectful, no comments or thoughts about their hygiene, or their way of eating while sitting on the floor when you are invited to the table. Dip the naan in the dal or in the various vegetarian or non-vegan preparations, and enjoy. No misconceptions, it’s spicy, or spicy. But fortunately northern India and Delhi are shy about chili, so you’ll get used to it too. If you have chosen hotel and restaurant mode, you will not have to undergo or live this experience described in the few lines above. Read the article on tips and tricks for traveling in India.

Acclimatizing to your environment

After taking this accommodation as per your requirements, you may encounter garlands of Indians accosting you for a few rupees to take from you. Souvenir sellers, tuk tuks, touts for tourist agencies, street vendors, taxi cabs… “No” will often be your word of choice, but you will also have to accept living with this word on your lips every day. Indians have a very particular relationship with money because it is lacking. Unlike us, they do not have this “European” self-assurance, so they are very rupee hunters.

Visit New Delhi for its paradises hidden in hell

Since I’ve already set the exciting scene, I’m going to move on to what will do you good. If you have read this far, you are interested in visiting New Delhi. Alright, here are two of my favorite spots in Delhi:

Lotus temple: to do in the morning because there are schools coming. The students are very funny and enjoy talking with you and have fun shouting or raising their hands in the air when you take their picture.

The tomb of Safdrajang: A tomb which is worth the detour to learn about Mughal history.

BOOK YOUR TICKET TO DELHI

To come to Delhi, I recommend these 4 companies at very affordable prices:

• Air india      (Direct to Delhi from Paris, but the site is all in English or Hindi)
• Jet Airways (1 stopover in Mumbai departing from Paris, site in French: top and inexpensive)
• Emirates     (1 Stopover in Dubai departing from Paris, site in French: moderately high quality and price)
• Etihad Airways (1 Stopover in Abu Dhabi, departing from Paris, site in French: moderately high quality and price)

Don’t take the others, you will have surprises, and I know what I’m talking about. (lost baggage, supplements…)

In the store, find my EBOOK on India, and otherwise, you can buy one of these books:

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How to manage to think of everything when going to India?

The answer is not obvious, unless we take the time to write down everything that comes to mind. That’s kind of the idea of ​​this article. I am writing it while I am in India. My tips and tricks for India will give you real perspective without pretension. These are stories heard from travelers or my mistakes so as not to repeat them.

Before you leave, here’s what you need to do:

• Check your health record
• Make an appointment with the doctor for vaccines and the first aid kit (see the article on the travelers center)
• Book your arrival hotel on Expedia. (€5 to €15 per night in Delhi)
• Also buy your plane ticket on Expedia to get a cheaper package with the hotel.
• Take the “Mondial assistance” travel insurance sold by Expedia for around €25 in addition to the total price.
• Unlock your iPhone or Android on the operator’s website. (Orange Bouygues, SFR or Free) See the conditions linked to your subscription. If you bought it in cash, you will only have to wait 24 hours for it to be ready to receive an Airtel sim card in India.
• Send an email to your bank to request an appointment and obtain cash directly
• Go to a currency exchange office in France (France airport) to avoid queues and ask for rupees (also avoid scams at Delhi airport. Example: no change at the machines so I will take you to a tourist agency which will give you cash if you buy a trip for that many euros and like that you will also pay for my taxi fare)
• Apply for your visa online for India without sending your passport (see the store and the India pack)
• Request an American express to be valid on all online shopping sites in India (IRCTC example for train reservations using your IRCTC application on Apple store or Android)
• Download the IRCTC app
• Download the Uber app and fill out your account if you don’t have one. Put your VISA in it.
• Set the UBER app to India.
• Read the article on preparing your trip in addition.
• Download the MAPS ME application.
• Download all the maps of India in MAPS ME from home with your Wifi. When you arrive, even if you are not connected to the internet, you will have where to go.
• Download the Airtel app
• Download Trip Advisor to find the spots to see.
• The day before your flight, preferably at night, take your first anti-malaria pill. (Mosquitoes)

Tips and tricks for India, on site as soon as you arrive at Delhi airport:

• Take an Airtel SIM card with your rupees. I do not recommend Vodaphone which works poorly here. Then ask the Indian salesperson to install the SIM for you, to do everything that needs to be done for your mobile to work. Do not take the Sim card without the activation service otherwise you will do like me, that is to say struggle for 5 more days.
• Leave the airport if you have your rupees or go to the exchange but be patient, you will have at least 2 hours.
• While waiting in line, write an email on your smartphone to your bank, asking them to add your Airtel (Indian) phone number to receive the “internet purchase verification” SMS. Otherwise you will have difficulty traveling. Because for each ticket order you will have to go through the security service of your bank who will give you a 4-digit code on your mobile to validate your order abroad.
• If your bank refuses the Indian number, buy a local mobile for 500 rupees and you will have a receiver for SMS.
• Do not take local tuk-tuks or taxis as they are guaranteed scams. Take an UBER so you don’t get “harassed for offers from the driver”
• Contact an UBER driver and wait approximately 4 minutes.
• Go to your hotel or your friends’ house
• Connect to the internet, and order your train tickets on IRCTC to travel around the country or by plane with AIR INDIA.
• Stay in Delhi for a maximum of 4 days to see the Lotus Temple and Akshardham but also the other temples.
• Start with Jaipur, then Jodphur and Jaislamer if you go west
• Start with Agra, then Khajurhao, and Varnassi (formerly Benares) if you go east.

Here are some tips and tricks for India, which I will update from time to time as I become aware of the problems encountered.

BUY MY EBOOK ON INDIA IN THE SHOP:

Not into new technology as much as me?

Ok in this case, buy one of my paper recommendations on Amazon, Lonely Planet or Routard:

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